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Monday, December 26, 2011
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Kreg Jig® Skills: 90° Panel Joints
Learn how to create fast and easy 90 degree panel joints with your Kreg Jig®. Panel joints are used in bookshelves, cabinets, and more. Learn correct use of Kreg's Right Angle Clamp, spacers, and where to place your Pocket-Holes. --------------------------------------- For additional information about this and other Kreg products, call us at 1.800.447.8638, or visit us on the web at www.kregjig.com. Ready to buy? tinyurl.com Join the "Kreg Club" tinyurl.com Become a fan of the Kreg Jig on Facebook! tinyurl.com Follow Kreg on Twitter! tinyurl.com ---------------------------------------
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Saturday, December 10, 2011
Kreg K2 Jig 3/8-Inch-Pocket Hole Jig
!±8± Kreg K2 Jig 3/8-Inch-Pocket Hole Jig
Kreg jigs make pocket hole screw assembly so easy to do that in many cases you can complete a projects glue-up without ever picking up a bar clamp. Not only do screws add great strength to the joint; they also serve as high-pressure clamps while your glue sets--clamps which dont cost much, dont weigh much, and dont have to be removed when the glue is dry. Kregs K2 Jig is a stout aluminum fixture with twin drill guides and a built-in toggle clamp for instant control over stock up to 1-1/8" thick. The K2 Jig includes a 3/8" step drill with stop collar. Highland Hardware offers a complete range of accessories for pocket hole assembly, from a variety of screws to extra or larger face clamps to glue in solid wood plugs in a variety of species. Kregs drill-point self-tapping screws simply eliminate the need for pilot holes in the mating piece, so assembly is very pleasantly fast.
- Jig can be used on a work bench or for portable operation
- Handles stock from 1/2 to 1-1/2 inches thick
- Made from industrial-grade aluminum and hardened steel for greater durability
- Includes drill bit, depth collar, and detailed instructions
- Lifetime warranty
Wednesday, December 7, 2011
Cabinet Face Frame Construction - Choosing the Best Method
There are two basic types of cabinet: "frameless" cabinets, which are essentially just a box made of plywood or particleboard, and "face frame" cabinets, which have an added wood frame on their front edge. When building face frame cabinets, joining the parts of the face frame together is arguably the most challenging task in the entire process. So, what is the best joinery method for cabinet face frames? There's no shortage of options: pocket screws, mortise and tenon joinery, dowels and biscuits all have their champions. In the end, the choice really depends on your situation and objectives.
For most professional cabinetmakers, the decision to adopt one method or another has to square with a pressing interest in getting cabinets out the door as quickly and efficiently as possible. For the hobbyist, who has much more freedom to experiment, it's a slightly different story. If your livelihood doesn't depend on shaving a few seconds off of this process or that, then the choice really depends on the conditions the cabinets will have to face, your skill level, the equipment you have available, the amount of time you want to give your cabinetry projects, and what you think it takes to join a face frame "right".
Mortise and Tenon Joints
Some cabinetmakers just seem to prefer time-tested joinery methods, and may go to the length of cutting a bona fide mortise and tenon for every face frame joint. There's little doubt that this method is the slowest, but there's also no question that it produces the strongest joint. Many would argue that structurally, a mortise and tenon joint surpasses overkill in this application. But if you're dedicated to making cabinets in the highest possible craft, then the knowledge that you've used the most resilient joint possible may be worth the extra effort.
Of course there are many ways to make a mortise and tenon joint, some being much faster than others. If you're committed to idea of building cabinets suitable for centuries and centuries of use, but prefer to move along as quickly as possible, here are a couple of options to consider.
Quicker, Easier "Loose" Tenon Joints
Arguably every bit as strong as a traditional mortise and tenon joint, a "loose tenon" joint is typically much easier to make. The "loose" in loose tenon joinery simply means that instead of cutting the end of one joint member into the shape of a tenon, a mortise is cut into both parts and then the two are joined by a separate piece of stock. The process is easier because the primary task is simply making two identical mortises, rather than the exacting procedure of cutting a precisely matched mortise and tenon in two separate - often set up-intensive - steps. The loose tenon stock itself can either be purchased ready-made as part of a joinery system, or can be easily made with common woodworking tools.
The affordable BeadLOCK Joinery System is a longtime favorite among weekend woodworkers and produces loose tenon joints easily and fairly quickly. The BeadLOCK system employs a uniquely shaped mortise made up of overlapping drill holes and a matching "ribbed" tenon stock, which is available ready-to-use, or can be made using tenon stock router bits and a router table. The BeadLOCK Jig consists of a multi-holed drill guide and a mechanism for positioning it on the stock so that the BeadLOCK mortise can be reliably and repeatably executed using an ordinary hand drill. Recently redesigned, the BeadLOCK Jig now comes in a Basic and Pro version, both of which can be upgraded with accessory kits that allow greater versatility in mortise/tenon size. A BeadLOCK joint can be made in a fraction of the time that it takes to cut a traditional joint, and many devotees argue that the unique, interlocking shape of the parts actually produces a stronger bond.
The Festool Domino Joinery System also produces a loose tenon joint, and makes the process as slick as it's ever likely to get. The Domino looks similar to a biscuit joiner, and produces joints about as fast, but the similarity between the two tools ends there. Instead of cutting a thin slit into the stock, the Domino uses an oscillating carbide cutter to make a mortise wide enough to house one of the system's specially designed "domino" shaped hardwood tenons. The result is a rock solid joint in record time. Of course all of that speed, strength and precision doesn't come free; the Domino's price tag isn't exactly for the faint of heart. But if you plan on being in the cabinetmaking game for a while, like to speed along as quickly as possible, and prefer a joinery method that will leave no questions about the integrity of your face frame joints, the system is impossible to beat.
While the Domino is definitely not to be confused with a biscuit joiner, that doesn't mean that a biscuit joiner can't be used to join face frames. In fact, the Porter Cable Deluxe Biscuit Joiner comes standard with a second, smaller cutter designed specifically for the task of cutting biscuit slots in 1-1/2" face frame stock. In terms of strength, a biscuit joint is no match for any type of mortise and tenon joint - loose or otherwise. But many cabinetmakers find that fact to be simply beside the point. When you get right down to it, a face frame joint really doesn't have to stand up to a whole lot of stress. Once it's attached to the cabinet box, it simply has to remain stuck together. And we'd guess the majority of cabinetmakers would deem a biscuit joint more than equal to the task.
Faster Still - Pocket Screw Joints
Still more cabinetmakers swear by pocket hole joinery for joining face frames. Pocket hole joinery is used widely in the cabinetmaking industry, and by all accounts is the clear winner when it comes to getting through the face frame assembly process fast. A pocket hole joint doesn't require clamping, but instead comes complete with its very own permanently installed clamp - i.e., the screw. That means that once its assembled, a face frame joined with pocket screws is ready for the next stage in the process, and can be joined to the cabinet box without further ado. Fast, strong and self-contained, pocket hole joinery appears almost tailor-made for face frame joinery, where joint stress is low, and a visible fastener on one side of the finished product is not a problem.
For the hobbyist, the name Kreg has become synonymous with affordable, easy to master pocket hole joinery systems. Over the years, Kreg has continued to improve its groundbreaking jig, and now offers a number of kits. Starting at under and ranging up to around 0 for the K3 Master System, Kreg jigs are available for virtually every woodworking budget. And later, when you turn pro, the semi-automatic Kreg Foreman will bring you up to industry production speed.
More Options...
Still other cabinetmakers prefer to dowel their face frame joints. Nothing wrong with that: Dowel joints have been around for hundreds of years, are more than strong enough for a face frame and - provided you already own a hand drill - require only a modest investment in a doweling jig and few dowels.
A Side Benefit - Learning New Skills
None of the joinery methods mentioned here are limited to face frame assembly, of course. All can be used in a wide variety of woodworking situations. In other words, buying the equipment necessary to try one or more on a specific project involves very little risk - if it turns not to be the preferred method in one situation, you will, without a doubt, find a use for your newly acquired joinery technique somewhere else.
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Friday, December 2, 2011
Richelieu Hardware - K3 Master System Pocket-Hole Jig
www.richelieu.com Product # 9132001 Model K3MS - The ultimate kit for KREG joinery The Kreg Jig Master System is the ultimate Pocket-Hole Jig on the market, and a great choice for any woodworking enthusiast. Between its front-side clamping capabilities, Dust-Collection Attachment, material Support Stop, removable 3-Hole Drill Guide, and seemingly endless adjustability, this jig truly has it all!
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